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Food & Fun in Portugal, Part I: Lisbon

May 13, 2017 by Edwina Clark

When I told people that I had booked 10 days in Portugal I got a lot of ‘that seems like an odd choice’ looks. However, after exploring three cities I can safely say that Portugal is anything but boring. Vibrant and charming, with a breathtakingly beautiful natural landscape, Portugal surpassed my expectations in almost every way. Here’s what we did and where we ate in Portugal’s capital city, Lisbon. 

The best healthy eats (and a few treats) in Lisbon.

The best healthy eats (and a few treats) in Lisbon.

As I write this post we’re on the train from The Algarve back to Lisbon for the final leg of our journey.  We’ve spent 10 days eating and drinking our way across three cities, but I still feel like we’ve scraped the surface. I can’t help but wonder why Portugal isn’t a more popular holiday destination. 

With that in mind, I wanted to provide a snapshot of our adventure across Europe’s westernmost country. We explored tons of great places, and it would be remiss not to share our discoveries with other health-conscious travelers.

Our itinerary included 4 nights in Lisbon, 2 in Porto, and another 3 in Porto de Mos on The Algarve. This first post is all about colorful, gritty Lisboa.

Where We Stayed

We stayed in Santa Catarina in this apartment, and then this one-bedder on our final night in Portugal. Both were comfortable, clean and convenient. Santa Catarina is less touristy and quieter than Barrio Alto but within walking distance to just about everything. I loved running along the Rio Tejo, exploring the quirky shops of São Bento, and navigating the winding streets of Alfama. We usually pick a museum or two to explore, but this time we opted to get lost on foot instead. We were epically jet-lagged when we arrived in Lisbon so sun exposure was essential!

Foodie Finds in Lisbon

Lisbon has an excellent (and affordable) food scene that incorporates European, and Moorish flavors, and celebrates it’s proximity to the ocean. We enjoyed an endless run of great food in Lisbon, but these gems were our favorites:

The Mill

This bustling coffee joint in Santa Catarina makes a mean cup of coffee and a brag-worthy breakfast. I had the bircher muesli and Ethan had the ‘The Breakfast Stack’; both were delicious and beautifully presented. In a country that loves a good pastry for breakfast, this was a welcome healthy reprieve.

omatoes, chorizo and spinach on top of bread with a fried egg, on a blue plate.
The Breakfast Stack at The Mill: Tomatoes, chorizo and spinach on top of bread with a fried egg, and toast.

Hello, Kristof.

Hip coffee and magazine spot with a small, but reliable menu. My avocado toast with tomato and pistachios was nothing short of excellent. It just what I needed to shake-off 24 hours of substandard travel food. They have gluten-free bread for those who prefer to eat sans gluten and a cool-as-sh*% space to ponder your next stop.

Avocado toast with tomato, crushed pistachios, peppercorns and salt, on a blue plate, on a walnut background.
Avocado toast with tomato, crushed pistachios, peppercorns and salt at Hello, Kristof.

Time Out Market Lisboa.

Time Out Market Lisboa aggregates some of the best regional Portuguese food options. It offers everything from local favorites like custard tarts and grilled sardines to burgers and pizza for the less adventurous palate. Surprisingly, takeout is not an option. Every dish is elegantly styled and served on porcelain. And if it’s booze you’re after there’s plenty of that too.

Pistola y Corazon Taqueria.

Lisbon may be a far cry from Mexico, but this lively bar serves up some seriously delicious Mexican fare. I had shrimp tacos, and Ethan had posole to remedy a 24-hour tummy bug. Both were flavorful and fresh, and I’d go back in a heartbeat.

Yao Pressed Juicery.

A hole-in-the-wall smoothie stop that makes their own almond milk and boasts uber-hip toppings like bee pollen and hemp seeds. This is a great stop for anyone lusting after a quick dose of fruit and veggies after indulging in one too many custard tarts.

The blueberry muffin smoothie from Yao Pressed Juicery.

Hotel do Chiado Rooftop Bar.

With a gorgeous view of Rio Tejo and The Alfama, this chic terrace bar is hard to beat for happy hour. This is where we spent our last night in Lisbon, before dining at Mini-Bar. Bring your jacket if it’s a cool day.

Looking over Alfama from Hotel do Chiado's rooftop bar.
Looking over Alfama from Hotel do Chiado’s rooftop bar in Lisbon.

Mini Bar.

Run by Portugal’s most famous chef, José Avillez, Mini-Bar feels like Moulin Rouge (minus the adult entertainment), and serves-up small plates. We shared 7 dishes and 2 desserts. The avocado tempura with dehydrated kimchi was our favorite. The ‘roasted chicken’ (a chicken skin chip with smoked cottage cheese and avocado) and steak tataki were also solid selections. The savory selections were better than our dessert.

Prior to our trip I’d heard mixed reviews about Lisbon but I really enjoyed it. Yes, it’s gritty but there’s something about jeweled-toned buildings, and laundry displayed proudly in the street that’s incredibly charming. In many ways, Lisbon is similar to San Francisco. It’s been roughed-up by earthquakes several times, has the same undulating terrain, and celebrates good food and drink much like SF.

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: eating out, healthy meals, healthy travel, Lisbon, Portugal, travel

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